The gateway to Spain’s sun-drenched Costa del Sol, Málaga is visited by over 20 million tourists each year — but most see nothing but the airport.
Its reputation as a transit stop for Andalusia’s golden beaches means many miss out on what this city really is: the region’s most vibrant cultural hub, loved for its museums, elegant architecture, and top-notch tapas.
The birthplace of Pablo Picasso, Málaga’s marble-tiled streets are steeped in history.
The city was founded by the Phoenicians some 2,700 years ago (making it one of the oldest in the world), and it’s since been ruled by everyone from the Moors to the Romans.
After years of turning right at arrivals and heading south along the coast, I finally got around to staying in Málaga in the summer of 2022.
I’ve returned three times since, and I’m only sorry it took so long for me to discover its charms.
With over 300 days of sunshine blessing its 16 beaches and flights from as little as £29 return, it has something for everyone (and every budget) at any time of year.
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Here’s where you should stay, eat, and see.
Best things to do in Málaga
Málaga is full of fascinating history, and the best way to get a sense of it all is to start walking.
Start at the Alcazaba, one of the largest Arab fortresses in Andalusia, and Gibralfaro Castle, which offers sweeping views over the city.
At the foot of the castle is a Roman theatre and a photogenic old town to stroll around.
Here, you’ll find places like the Ataranzanas Market – drink a vermouth and eat a campero, a local speciality sandwich stuffed with ham, fresh lettuce, tomato, melted cheese and mayonnaise – and the cathedral, an imposing, elegant structure known as ‘The One-Armed’ for its unfinished south tower.
Right around the corner is the Picasso Museum, an unassuming building that houses an incredible collection of the master’s work. I’ve been twice, and I would happily go again. The museum is open daily from 10am to 6pm, and entry is €13.
Once you’ve satisfied your cultural appetite, an afternoon at one of Málaga’s hammams is an afternoon well spent.
The idea of the hammam, or public bath, goes way back to the Roman Empire, when people loved coming together for a good ol’ communal soak.
But it wasn’t until the Islamic Golden Age (from the 8th to the 15th century) that the hammam really took off.
Keeping things squeaky clean was a big deal in Islamic hygiene, and the hammam became a crucial part of daily life, cleaning up the body and the soul.
There are a few to choose from in the city’s historic centre, but the best by far is the Hammam Al Ándalus Baños Árabes.
I’ve also been to the one in Madrid, and Málaga’s is better. Here’s what it looks like:
In this magnificent relic of Arab rule, you will destress in a steam room, wash your worries away in the (allegedly) healing waters, have your skin scrubbed with a deliciously exfoliating Kessa glove and finish off with a massage that will leave you on the verge of levitating.
Entry to the baths (90-minute session) starts from €50pp on Get Your Guide.
If the weather is too good to spend all that time indoors, grab your swimmers and make for one of the city’s 16 urban beaches.
Malagueta Beach is the most popular, as it’s the closest to the old town and easily reachable on foot.
But if you’re willing to stretch your legs (or more advisably, take the M-160 bus), I suggest Peñón del Cuervo (Raven Rock) Beach.
Often described as Málaga’s secret beach, this idyllic escape, 20 minutes’ drive east from the hustle and bustle of the city, has crystal clear water and pretty picnic spots.
Where should I eat and drink?
A stop at the aforementioned Ataranzanas Market is a must for every first-time visitor, but after that, you should eat as the locals do.
Victoria Watson, a PR director who has lived in Málaga for six years, gives me the lowdown.
She gets her daily caffeine fix at Santa Coffee, but says you can also find great coffee at Mia (pictured below), Delicotte and Next Level.
Victoria tells me her favourite spot for menú del día (an affordable fixed-price three-course lunch) is Casa Festin, a hidden gem tucked away in the residential area of Limonar, one of the city’s most beautiful neighbourhoods.
Apparently, they even have resident peacocks to admire.
For upscale tapas, she recommends La Cosmo – there’s an open kitchen that lets you in on the action – and for the best grub outside the city centre, La Taberna de Mike Palmer.
Here are more top choices from a frequent visitor:
When should I visit?
With almost year-round sun, there’s no wrong time to visit Málaga.
Summer is an obvious choice, so you can enjoy the beaches and hot weather, but this will also be the most crowded and most expensive.
Metro‘s Commissioning Opinion Editor, Maicey Navarro-Griffiths, whose mum is from Spain, tells people to go during Easter.
‘The weather is still warm without being boiling, so you can actually walk around and enjoy the sights, and Easter in Spain is unforgettable, there are lovely processions and celebrations in every town,’ she says.
Don’t rule out visiting in winter, either. The mostly dry weather and sunny vibes are perfect for sightseeing.
Getting there
You can fly direct to Málaga year-round from several UK airports, including London (Gatwick, Stansted and Luton), plus Manchester, Bristol, Birmingham, Belfast, and Liverpool.
We found return flights with easyJet from as little as £29, departing from London Luton on February 9 and returning on February 12, according to Skyscanner.
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