There’s often a binary, almost visceral, tribal divide when it comes to favourite summer holiday spots. Especially if a particular destination holds a sentimental place in the heart – and passport. Having had a life-long attachment to the beautiful island of Mallorca – I’ve holidayed there since I was a child, got married there, and continue to visit every summer with my own family – I’ve always, I’m ashamed to admit, turned my nose up at Marbella, thinking it can’t possibly compare. No carbs before Marbs, and all that.
But with friends and family choosing the sunny, super popular tourist destination year on year for their family getaways, I was intrigued to dip my toe in the water, and see if the new Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol delivered like the rest of the hotel group’s magnificent outposts. And if, just maybe, Marbella could be for me, too.
A 20-minute taxi ride from Gibraltar airport, and a hop, skip and a jump over the border, the new Fairmont resort only opened in spring 2025, and is gearing up for its first summer with aplomb. Located on the coast of San Roque, near Estepona and Sotogrande, UK travellers can also fly to Malaga, which is just an hour away by car.
My immediate first impression on stepping into the grand lobby is a wonderful mixture of instant calm and bubbling anticipation; that immediate feeling that the hotel is going to be a goodun’. Anchored by a striking sculpture of a whale’s tail, which acts as a perfect trompe l’oeil against floor-to-ceiling windows framing glistening sea views as far as Morocco, the Rock of Gibraltar, and the Costa del Sol in the distance, the welcoming staff rush to bring us refreshments before showing us to our suite
Set amidst the breathtaking and still relatively unspoilt natural beauty of Andalusia’s rugged coastal mountains, with poolside views of the world-class La Hacienda Links Golf (an 18-hole course voted one of the best golf courses in Spain at the World Golf Awards), the resort is generously spread out, maximising on the plentiful space and scenery, and offering endless views of the Med. With 153 rooms and suites, and 47 private villas, golf buggies are on hand if you’re lost, hot, or tired, and it takes our sweet, apologetic porter a while to find our room, having been in the job less than 24 hours.
We have the privilege of staying in a two-bedroom pool suite, a description that does the gorgeous accommodation no justice. My nine (going-on-19) year old daughter is quick to grab my phone, keen to capture a grand tour for the ‘gram, while the boys run yelping like wildlings through the vast lounge, kitchen, bedrooms and outdoor terrace, complete with private pool, stripping off as they go to be the first to dive in.
The decor is all very Spanish, very calming, very demure, with neutral, Ibizan-style linens complementing Campaspero stone, fine woods, and jute. The room is offset by soft prints, rattan, and locally-made ceramics and glass, with large canvases reflecting the burnt sienna hues of the landscape. Highly pinchable Rose 31 amenities by Le Labo put my Sanex and Simple toiletries to shame. It’s almost sad how excited I get about the washer and dryer, a chore which somehow doesn’t feel quite as laborious on holiday – and limits that avalanche of washing that all but consumes the first week back after travelling. This is adulthood.
We spend the first afternoon lounging in the privacy of our backyard pool, heady from too much wine at lunchtime and a 4am start, but on day two head straight to the gorgeous central pool area. Ideal for families and couples alike, there are plenty of seating options – so no need to panic, Brits abroad style, and set your alarm for the crack of dawn to secure beds. From ring-side loungers if you’re watching kids, to quiet, set-back cabanas if you’d rather hide from them, a scattering of more than 300 beds are offered without feeling sardine-like. The poolside snack bar provides light bites and drinks, which can be enjoyed directly from your sun bed, but you’d be mad to miss the respite from the beating sun promised by the breezy, sun-dappled shade of open-air haven Umbra, where we devour tuna tartare and sashimi under the bamboo roof.
There are five diverse dining options within the resort, and we also give all-day eating spot El Faro a whirl, fitting lunch, dinner, and two breakfasts under our quickly expanding belts. Lunch is a light but delicious choice of Andalusian-style squid with unctuous and tangy steak tartare to share, while my children enjoy mini sirloins and chips. Dinner calls for fresh shrimp carpaccio with mango and apple caviar, followed by tuna loin with ratatouille, while the kids go for golden chicken escalopes, still glistening from the oven. Other dishes to tempt include a tapas medley of Iberian cold cuts, local cheeses, confit tomato salad and creamy oxtail croquettes.
Service at Fairmont La Hacienda is, naturally, on point and the staff can’t do enough for us. I ask for a blanket for my daughter, who is chilly in the welcome evening breeze, and they bring her a soft, fine knit scarf, boxed and wrapped from the gift shop, to put around her shoulders and take home with her afterward. Everything is done with a smile. Nobody wants to say no.
The elegant breakfast buffet is also served in this airy, sun-and-rattan-filled space. Often overwhelmed by breakfast buffets, the offering of eggs, crepes, pastries, fruit and savouries is modest yet plentiful. In fact, I think it’s up there with one of my favourite breakfast buffets (equalled only by Four Seasons Hampshire’s super sausage spread).
Things get fancier at Dalmar, headed by chef Benito Gómez, one of the best chefs in the country, famed for his two-Michelin star restaurant Bardal and neighbouring eatery Tragatá. Focusing on the seasonal rhythms of local producers, it specialises in aged meat, which is proudly displayed in its own cabinet as if a series of hard-won trophies, while the extensive wine cellar boasts exceptional vintages to match. We try a range of dishes (and wines), from oozing croquettes to fresh grilled aubergine with feta and tomatoes, as well as oysters, roast baby chicken, and a delicious Black Forest cake for dessert.
We don’t get a chance to hit the beach, with the beach club not yet open, but we do grab a couple of hours in the welcoming kid’s clubs – an immaculately designed playroom for the toddler (catering to those aged 4-9 if unaccompanied by an adult), featuring a particularly inviting wooden-toy filled snug set behind an arched, dark pink enclave, reminiscent of a very design-conscious princess castle. The Teens Club (for those aged 9-13) features a foosball table and games consoles, as well as plenty of spots to lounge, and scroll. Off-property experiences include horseback riding on the beach, sailing trips among the dolphins from the port of Sotogrande to Gibraltar Rock, and road trips in an electric Moke car.
I manage to escape to the spa for an hour, a serene sanctuary boasting sea views on one side, and lush, emerald mountains on the other, creating a magical, immersive feel before you even get to the treatments. I opt for a wonderful massage, performed to precision, but there is also a comprehensive range of treatments and experiences to choose from, as well as hammams, a sauna, steam room, a Turkish bath, indoor and outdoor pools (with options for both hot and cold immersion), a yoga studio and cardio lounge, hydrotherapy pools and a snow fountain for invigorating thermal contrasts.
And while term-time breaks aren’t always reflective of how a hotel may handle mid-August school holiday chaos, there’s no doubt that this new, laidback, but still kid-centric Costa del Sol resort offers just what Marbella needs: a luxurious sanctuary that embraces the little ones, while also offering top-notch service, food, and grown-up sophistication. If you can stretch to a suite, then you can have your paella and eat it too – with options to mingle with the (select) masses at the family pool while also taking some quiet family time in a dreamily spacious private setting. While Mallorca will forever hold a special place in my heart, this Marbella-based gem will certainly be pulling me back for a double-dip soon.
As long as nobody ever rhymes Marbs with carbs again.
Rooms from €450 (approx. £390) per night, fairmont.com
Read more: Where to stay in the Balearics this summer