woven wooden chairs and small tables line a balcony

Plaza 18 hotelØivind Haug

Where to stay in Costa de la Luz

Plaza 18, Vejer de la Frontera

Once a 19th-century merchant’s house, this jewel-box-pretty boutique near a fountain-filled plaza is the prime place to stay in the best-preserved pueblo blanco in Andalusia. Breakfasts unfurl in Michelin-noted El Jardín del Califa, a Moroccan restaurant set in the palm-filled walled courtyard of sister hotel La Casa del Califa. Both properties are part of a network of hotels, restaurants and an atmospheric hammam created by visionary Scottish hotelier James Stuart, who holds Vejer close to his heart.

an armchair sitting outside with a white cotton drape providing shade

Casa La SiestaØivind Haug

Casa La Siesta, Vejer de la Frontera

This fabulously romantic cortijo below Vejer was reimagined by the founder of London interiors brand Bert & May, who carefully reclaimed the exposed beams, terracotta tiles and iron balustrades in the lovely six-bedroom country house and two self-contained villas. The bountiful locavore food – much from on-site – is best enjoyed outside, with lavender wafting from beautifully primped Mediterranean gardens.

Villa Punta Paloma, Tarifa

Set in two-and-a-half forested acres that roll down to a wild beach on the Punta Paloma peninsula, this beautifully revamped stone bungalow is the brainchild of Marbella Club co-owner Jennica Arazi, who wanted to create a villa hideaway with the same service standards as her hotel. The cool open-plan house and pretty outbuildings are full of local crafts and wicker, with natural hues reflecting the surrounding sea, rocks and forest. Zingy Mediterranean food by Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef Helena Martin-Riva can be arranged, or there’s El Mirlo, a seafood restaurant down the track, also run by Marbella Club, with blue horizons, grilled octopus and good vibes.

table with plate of food and a glass of wine

Plankton rice with aioli at La Taberna del Chef del MarØivind Haug

Where to eat in Costa de la Luz

Annie B’s Spanish Kitchen, Vejer de la Frontera

Annie B may be Scottish, but an invitation into her Moorish home with views over Vejer is a deep dive into the epicurean culture of her adopted home. She’ll cook with you and for you, and introduce every ingredient with passion. She has particular expertise in fino and atún rojo, and can wangle tables at El Campero in Barbate: the high church of bluefin tuna.

Address: Annie B’s Spanish Kitchen, C. Viñas, 1, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz, Spain
Website: anniebspain.com



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By Steve

Spain is one of my favourite places to visit. The weather, the food, people and way of life make it a great place to visit.